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Posted Tuesday, 14 February 2012  /  Written by The Twig

It wasn't that long ago that your average kitchen didn't even have electricity, let alone a refrigerator. In those days, many methods of cooking were developed as a necessary part of preparing and preserving the food rather than just for novelty or adding flavour. Take pies for example. In ye olden times a thick pastry topping was designed to exclude air and thus preserve the meat. These days, it's definitely more about taste and texture. A flaky rough puff is hardly going to do much for a steak and kidney's shelf life.

So, many modern dishes have a practical genesis that isn't necessarily apparent in our age of fridges, freezers and high hygiene standards. And so it is with potted food. For the uninitiated, potting involves packing your pre-poached ingredient (usually meat or fish) into a pot and sealing it in with a layer of clarified, spiced butter. Some old recipes claim that game, once properly potted, could be kept for a month, making the process a god-send for your medieval kitchen manager. The important factor was, of course, getting a good seal with the butter, resulting in the equivalent of an airtight jar. Old recipes stressed the need for clarified butter (made by heating and separating the butter to remove the milk solids). This too helps the food last longer and most recipes still suggest it although, unless you're planning an unaided voyage around some desolate cape any time soon, this is no longer critical. These days, potted meats are an altogther more delicate affair, eaten as a pate or terrine with crusty toast and a decent chutney; warm toast is essential if you want the butter to melt, allowing the flavours and textures a proper opportunity to mingle.

That's a rather long introduction but segues neatly into our telling you about a very new company doing exciting things with this very old process. The Potted Game Company is a partnership between three young and talented chefs, Hugh Coulson, Jemima Palmer-Tomkinson, and Rory Baxter, united by a shared passion for British food and indeed all things culinary. Jemima, Rory and Hugh were keen to start a venture that made use of the great range of abundant but underrated meats and fish that we have in the UK. Having stumbled across some old recipes for potted meat, they set about putting a modern twist on the product and the Potted Game Company was born.

The small but diverse range currently consists of five products; Pheasant with smoked bacon and hazelnut, Rabbit with cider and English Mustard, Wood Pigeon with walnuts and ginger, Trout with lemon zest and spices and Partridge with apricot and cashew nuts. It will come as no surprise that, as a company trying to create an exciting, young brand, the team have steered clear of the ubiquitous (if delicious) potted shrimp. Seasonal specials such as grouse and crayfish occasionally make an appearance and some more unusual meats like wild boar and squirrel are currently in development.

Over the weekend we caught up with Jemima at London's Borough Market and then returned to the Barn to tuck into samples of the rabbit, partridge and pigeon with a stack of freshly toasted sourdough. Each of them was delicious but our particular favourites were the rabbit and the pigeon. The latter was robust and flavoursome with a perfect balance of ginger and spices; ideal for game fans to enjoy all year round. The rabbit was more delicately flavoured and would make an excellent and gentle introduction for anyone who has yet to discover the delicious world of British game; subtly spiced, moist and not in any way 'gamey'.

The Potted Game Company is a small business but with enthusiastic individuals behind it and we can see it going far. It's always exciting to see a new British producer making use of great British ingredients. If you're a regular at Borough Market make sure you pick up a pot when you're next in town. Otherwise, keep an eye out at other farmers markets and in higher end supermarkets; we have a feeling The Potted Game Company's products will be on a shop shelf near you soon. If you can't wait that long, you can also buy online.

For more information on the Potted Game Company, check out their website.

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