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Meating up in the Forest

Posted Wednesday, 1 February 2012  /  Written by The Twig

The scene has hardly changed since the 12th Century. It's Autumn in the New Forest and ancient breeds of pig are roaming freely on the Hampshire heathland, foraging and snuffling through leafy undergrowth. They are hunting primarily for acorns but beech nuts, chestnuts and crab apples also feature in their free porcine picnic. It's a tradition dating back hundreds of years; certain inhabitants of the Forest, known as Commoners, are claiming their right to graze pigs in the National Park. In fact, as well as getting a free meal, the pigs are doing good for the more famous residents of the forest because acorns are poisonous to the wild ponies. The practice is known as pannage and it takes place every Autumn. The local forest wardens, or Verderers, together with the Forestry Commission decide when it will begin and end, depending on the weather and when the acorns start dropping. The pannage season usually lasts for 60 days, ending in November or December, after which the pannage pigs are 'finished' on a diet of whey and barley (a pure acorn diet can make for an overpowering flavour so the finishing makes it more palatable). The result is a truly unique tasting meat with a wonderful texture and unusually dark appearance (it can be almost black if the pig has had a high proportion of acorns in its diet). You can still get your hand on some pannage pork but the short season is already coming to close for the year. Make a note in your diary for the late Autumn and experience a very special seasonal and local treat. You can find a list of New Forest Producers supplying pannage pork here.

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